What a pocket door costs
| Job | Typical cost |
|---|---|
| New construction or open wall Frame kit, door and trim | $800–$2,500 |
| Retrofit into a finished wall Wall opened, reframed, patched and painted | $1,200–$4,500+ |
| Retrofit labor At $65–$110 an hour in most markets | $700–$2,200 |
The door itself is a small part of the bill. The work is in the wall: a pocket door slides into a cavity as wide as the door, so the opening in the wall is roughly twice the door's width, and all of that drywall has to be rebuilt and finished.
What cannot be inside the pocket
The section of wall the door slides into must be empty. Light switches, outlets, plumbing pipes and heating ducts there have to be moved. Moving electrical work needs a licensed electrician, and pipes need a plumber. Those costs are separate, and they are often what makes a retrofit expensive. Before you commit, check both sides of the wall for switches, outlets and vents.
Load-bearing walls
Cutting a wide opening in a load-bearing wall needs a properly sized header, often a permit, and sometimes an engineer. That is structural work, which we do not take on; we will tell you on the first call if the wall you have in mind looks load-bearing. Non-load-bearing interior walls are the usual candidates.
Hardware makes the difference
The most common complaint about pocket doors is a door that jumps its track, rubs or sticks, and nearly all of that comes down to the frame kit and track. A sturdy frame with steel-reinforced studs, a heavy-duty track rated for the door's weight, and soft-close hardware cost a little more and make the door pleasant to use for decades. Make sure the track can be reached for adjustment without tearing the wall open.
Where pocket doors work, and where they do not
They are ideal where a swinging door gets in the way: small bathrooms, closets, laundry rooms, and between rooms that are usually left open. They seal less tightly than a hinged door, so more sound and light gets through, which matters for bedrooms and some bathrooms. A barn door or bypass sliding door saves similar space without opening the wall, for less money.
How a retrofit is done
- Confirm the wall is not load-bearing and is clear of wiring, plumbing and ducts, or arrange for those to be moved.
- Remove the existing door, trim and drywall on both sides across the full width of the pocket.
- Remove the studs in the pocket area and install the pocket frame kit with its header and track, level and plumb.
- Hang the door, adjust the rollers and fit the stops.
- Hang new drywall, tape and finish it, then install the split jambs and casing, and paint.
For hinged doors, see interior door replacement cost and our door installation cost guide.
Common questions
Can any wall take a pocket door?
Only a wall with enough clear length beside the opening for the door to slide into, with no switches, outlets, pipes or ducts in that section unless they are moved, and ideally one that is not load-bearing.
How long does a pocket door installation take?
In an open wall, a day or less. A retrofit usually spans several days, because the new drywall needs coats of compound that dry between visits.
Are pocket doors good for bathrooms?
They save space and work well in small bathrooms, but they block less sound than a hinged door. A solid-core door and good seals help if privacy matters.
Related guides
Compiled from published 2026 national cost data (Angi, HomeGuide). We update these figures as we complete jobs.