Diagnose it in two minutes
Rub a little lipstick, chalk or a dry-erase marker on the end of the latch bolt, then close the door gently so the latch touches the strike plate. The mark shows exactly where the latch is hitting. Now you know whether it is high, low or just short of the hole.
| Job | Fix |
|---|---|
| Latch hits above the strike Door has sagged. Start with the hinges | Tighten or shim hinges |
| Latch hits below the strike Frame has shifted, or hinges were shimmed too far | Adjust the strike plate |
| Latch reaches the hole but won't catch Hole too shallow, paint buildup, or a gap too wide | File or move the strike |
| Latch doesn't spring out fully Sticky or worn latch mechanism | Clean, lubricate or replace |
| Door springs back open New weatherstripping too thick, or a warped door | Adjust seal or strike |
Fix 1: tighten the hinges
- Tighten every hinge screw, on the door and on the frame.
- If a screw in the top hinge spins without biting, replace it with a 3-inch screw driven through the jamb into the wall framing. This pulls the top of the door back toward the frame and lifts the latch side.
- Close the door and check the latch again.
This single fix solves many latching problems, because a sagging top hinge is the most common cause.
Fix 2: adjust the strike plate
If the latch is only slightly off, file the inside edge of the strike plate opening with a metal file until the latch drops in. For a bigger miss, unscrew the strike, extend the mortise in the jamb with a chisel in the direction you need, fill the old screw holes with glued wood slivers or toothpicks, and remount the plate. Adjustable strike plates are also available and make future adjustments easy.
Fix 3: shim a hinge
If the latch hits low, a thin cardboard shim behind the bottom hinge leaf on the frame side tilts the door up slightly. A shim behind the top hinge does the opposite. Shim one hinge at a time and test after each change.
Fix 4: free up the latch
If the latch bolt is slow to spring out, remove the knob or lever, clean the latch with a dry lubricant such as graphite or a silicone spray, and reinstall it. If it still sticks, a replacement latch costs little; take the old one to the store to match the backset (the distance from the door edge to the center of the knob hole).
Exterior doors
On exterior doors, new weatherstripping that is too thick can push the door back so it will not latch without slamming. Moving the strike plate slightly toward the stop usually fixes it; see door weatherstripping. A split or soft frame around the strike is a different job: see door frame repair.
When to call someone
If the door has warped, the frame is out of square, or the problem keeps returning each season, the fix may involve planing the door, resetting the frame, or replacing the door. See interior door repair and how to fix a squeaky door.
Common questions
Why did my door suddenly stop latching?
Seasonal humidity and settling are the usual causes. Wood swells in humid months and shrinks in dry ones, and hinge screws loosen over time, so a door that latched fine last season can start missing.
Can I just file the strike plate?
Yes, for a miss of an eighth of an inch or less. For more than that, tighten the hinges first, and then reposition the strike plate if needed.
Is it the latch or the strike plate?
Mark the end of the latch bolt with chalk or lipstick and close the door gently. If the mark lands off the strike opening, it is an alignment problem. If it lands in the opening but the latch does not catch, the latch or the depth of the hole is the problem.
Related guides
Methods follow standard door hardware adjustment practice. We update these figures as we complete jobs.