How-to guide

How to fix squeaky floors

A floor squeaks when something moves that should not: subfloor sliding on a nail, a board rubbing its neighbor, or a gap between the subfloor and a joist. The fix is to stop the movement, and the best method depends on whether you can get underneath. Most squeaks are an annoyance and nothing more.

Find the squeak

Have someone walk the floor slowly while you listen, from below if there is a basement or crawl space. Mark the spot. Then find the joists: they usually run 16 inches apart, and a line of nails or a stud finder will show them. Knowing whether the squeak is over a joist or between two decides the fix.

Match the floor and the access to the fix.
JobBest fix
Squeak over a joist, basement open below
Gap between subfloor and joist
Shim and glue from below
Squeak between joists
Subfloor flexing
Add blocking below
Under carpet, no access below
Finished ceiling underneath
Breakaway screw kit
Hardwood, no access below
Boards rubbing or loose
Trim screws, then filler
Hardwood boards rubbing each other
Seasonal, light squeak
Powdered graphite
Stair tread
Tread rubbing the riser or stringer
Glue blocks or screws

Fixing it from below

  1. Look for a gap between the top of the joist and the subfloor at the squeak.
  2. Coat a thin wood shim with construction adhesive and tap it gently into the gap. Stop when it is snug; driving it hard lifts the floor.
  3. For a long gap, run a bead of construction adhesive along the joint on both sides of the joist.
  4. Between joists, fit a piece of solid blocking tight under the subfloor and fasten it to the joists on each side.
  5. If you add screws up through the subfloor, measure first so they stop short of the finished floor.

Fixing it from above

Carpet. Breakaway screw kits are made for this. A scored screw is driven through the carpet and subfloor into the joist using a depth fixture, then the head is snapped off below the surface. The carpet hides the rest.

Hardwood. Drill a small pilot hole, drive a trim-head screw through the board into the joist, set it just below the surface and fill it with matching wood filler. For boards that only rub each other, work powdered graphite into the joint and walk it in. It is a temporary fix, but it costs almost nothing.

Squeaky stairs

Stairs squeak where the tread meets the riser or the stringer. From underneath, glue and screw small wood blocks into the corner between tread and riser. From above, drive two trim screws at opposing angles through the tread into the riser and fill the holes. A handrail that moves is a separate job; see stair railing installation cost.

When a squeak means more

A squeak alone is not structural. Pay attention if it comes with a floor that bounces, sags or slopes, cracks in the walls above, or doors that have started to stick; see drywall crack repair for what those signs can mean. That needs a look at the framing before anyone adds screws.

Hiring out a single squeak rarely makes sense; it is a job to add to a visit. See handyman hourly rates.

Common questions

Why do my floors squeak more in winter?

Heating dries the air, wood shrinks, and gaps open between boards, subfloor and joists. Many seasonal squeaks fade when humidity returns.

Will WD-40 fix a squeaky floor?

No. Oil can stain wood and does not stop the movement. Powdered graphite between boards is the dry lubricant to use, and fastening the floor is the real fix.

Can squeaky floors be fixed without removing carpet?

Yes. Breakaway screws are driven through the carpet into the joist and snapped off below the surface.

Related guides

Methods follow standard floor framing and carpentry repair practice. We update these figures as we complete jobs.

Squeaks on a longer list?

Tell us which rooms and what the floor is, and add any other repairs. One fixed price for the visit.

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